How to Protect your Furniture in Storage - Plastics

All plastics are polymers, made up of various parts. Each is complex and different, but all are made from natural materials, processed, including cellulose and coal.

Most people now recognise the recycling symbol -  three arrows that together create a triangle. Often in an item´s recycling code, there will be a number in the middle or under it. These codes indicate which group of plastics (plastic resin codes) the item belongs to. Whilst the symbols/numbers help recycle, they can also help us identify the type of plastic.

This is more relevant than it seems at first glance in an article about storage. How you treat plastics going into storage will depend on the type of plastic, as well as its finish (generally matte, semi-gloss or gloss)

There are other clues too, like whether the plastic is hard (like a milk crate) in which case it is probably polyethylene or polypropylene. Clear, brittle plastics like imitation glass are usually polystyrene. We´re not going to get hung up on these plastic names, just the way we treat them.¡

Preparation

Preparing well will prevent damage to or loss of parts later.

Have the right tools ready before starting  This will vary with what the item of furniture is – a moulded plastic garden chair will need a lot less preparation than a vinyl sideboard or play equipment - and will range from screwdrivers  to plastic bags and labels for holding any screws or fixtures.

It's also important to ensure that the space you are storing in is appropriate – so much so that this article ends with a dedicated section of its own on the subject

Cleaning plastic for storage

Anyone following this blog, or storage buffs in general, will probably already be aware of the general need to have things clean and dry before storing in order to avoid mould and discolouration/staining.

Most plastics can cope with being washed with warm water and washing up liquid, applied with a soft cloth. However, marks and stains can be trickier to remove. Often a little ´elbow grease´, using a rougher grain cloth will usually be enough, but take care on high gloss surfaces which can end up scratched. If the type of plastic can be identified from any recycling or packaging label, it will help identify the best way to clean it.

For example, vinyl finishes are formed of PVC and various other compounds to help make it durable and resistant to water spills, and sometimes given a ´wood´ like finish as a cheaper replacement for hardwood. Designed for easy maintenance, as long as water is cleared off before sitting long enough to seep through, it only needs light cleaning. Often even flood marks can simply be washed away.

Vinyl can be brushed off with a soft brush, dusted, even vacuumed to clean. If it´s textured or ridged, for example to imitate wood finishes, dust and dirt can sit in ridges. Vacuum with a soft nozzle, then wash down gently. However, avoiding scratches is really important to keep the furniture's good looks, as is removing any build up of cleaning soap.

However, and this is where it's important to try and get an understanding of the plastic you are working with becomes important. For example, if a vinyl is waxed, it may be better to wax than wash.

Note too that solvents can warp or damage the surfaces of plastics, so unless a product has been specifically created for cleaning the kind of plastic that the furniture is made of (see recycling label if unsure) avoid its use. Ammonia, for example, rarely, if ever, mixes well with synthetic coatings.

Also remember that boiling water can cause plastics to bubble or warp when too hot.

On plastic that is strong enough, pressure washers  can reduce the need for chemicals and a good deal of ´elbow grease´ by simply knocking off the dirt.

We are storage specialists, not cleaning specialists, but at Pink Storage we have learned a thing or two along the way: many people swear by a weak solution of apple cider vinegar, preferring it to bleach, which is often also used.

Note too that there are plastic restorers available on the market. These create a protective barrier on the plastic´s surface, and can offer extra protection to many plastics. There are different types   -   some are designed for use on any plastic, whilst others are specifically for certain types. Our understanding is that over the counter varieties simply replace the moisture lost by exposure to light and heat that dry them out.¡

Dry before storing

It's vital to ensure that plastics are properly dry before storing, or the furniture won't stay in good condition.

Acetal resins are amongst the strongest plastics. They are hard, durable, and somewhat resistant to moisture, solvents and chemicals, making them ideal for moulded items.  Yet even though they don´t warp or oxidise easily, even these products can degrade if exposed to water for too long.

Drying well is therefore a vital step towards protecting stored plastic furniture – even outdoor furniture – as is making sure that the storage space is both dry and free of leaks.

Dismantling

As with wood furniture, consider dismantling furniture for storage. A smaller 'footprint will mean needing less space, and dismantling often makes it less likely that other items will be rested on the item, risking dirt and scratches. Moreover, transport becomes easier.

Dismantle furniture in careful order so that parts aren't being forced off, meeting resistance, and consequently causing breakages.

Protecting

Despite being very durable, once the plastic furniture has been cleaned and dried, it's important to cover it over, loosely.

At Pink Storage, we found a wonderful explanation of `'Surface-to-surface adhesion', the fancy name for things sticking together (particularly applicable to plastics) by the physics department at the University of Illinois. The proper name is apparently the ´van der Waals forces´, described by them as “electric charges in the material doing a sort of coordinated dance”. This sounds poetic and lovely, but trust us. No-one wants plastics sticking to each other in storage: the furniture surfaces may suffer damage.

Remember that bubble wrap is made of plastic, so ensure that the covering is fabric. Fabric covers protect the furniture against dust and scratches, but are still breathable, allowing air flow. They also have the advantage of being comparatively lightweight and reusable, and can always be held in place with moving tape.

Furniture/moving blankets are also a good option. They may be heavier, but these thick, padded covers are designed specifically to protect furniture from damage. Again, moving tape is usually not a bad option for holding them in place.

Strong cardboard boxes are also an option, or wood as long as what's inside can ´breathe´.  And increasingly durable quilted furniture covers made of fabric are available on the market  - as are corner protectors that will help protect your furniture even further.

Of course, the best option of all is purpose-designed protective covers, tailored to fit and often provided at purchase. They will usually be fitted, padded in the right places, reinforced where needed and may even have custom straps to keep them in place.

Good Storage Spaces

Despite the fact that much garden furniture is made of plastic, plastics should be kept out of direct sunlight.

Almost every plastic will be unhappy at high temperatures, resulting in cracks, chips, warping and even breakage. So keeping plastic out of direct sunlight and at a consistent temperature (5-30 degrees, generally) is going to ensure that the plastic survives storage in great condition.

They should also be kept dry (as seen above).

When using self storage, choose a reputable facility with security, and make sure movers know how to lift safely. If you have to stack things, test that everything is stable before leaving the storage space.

Ensure the storage unit is dry, cool, and well-ventilated to prevent damp and mould.

Pink Storage, for example, offers some great options for storage in Wales and the north of England, with easy online sign up, drive up access and state of the art security in place.